Switzerland Archives - BudgetTraveller https://budgettraveller.org/category/switzerland/ Travel in style, on a budget. Discover the best hostels across Europe and the World with my guide to Luxury Hostels Wed, 05 Feb 2025 05:30:28 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.7.2 27906162 Basel on a budget https://budgettraveller.org/basel-on-a-budget/ https://budgettraveller.org/basel-on-a-budget/#respond Thu, 19 Dec 2024 07:25:41 +0000 https://budgettraveller.org/?p=20819

Where Switzerland, France and Germany meet, Basel with a population of under 200000, packs a punch with its perfect blend of old and new. Beneath the picture-postcard cobblestone streets and classic architecture there is a quirky cool edge, which is evident from quirky public sculpture pieces, to its avant garde art galleries and its breathtaking modern architectural buildings – there are stories in every corner of this city. There is a ton of culture, from giants of the art scene like Fondation Beyeler to a rich hive of independent art galleries, this city is very rich in terms of the arts.Then there is the food scene, the crossroad of Swiss, French and German influences that delivers serious flavour, often with a side of rebellion. Basel has something for everyone, whatever your passion and interests are. Here is my guide to Basel on a budget. PS If you are planning a trip to Switzerland , here is my brand new guide to Switzerland on a budget and also my brand new guide to Lucerne on a budget and  Zurich on a budget.Also checkout my earlier guide to the best things to do in Chur

Dorms, Hyve Basel

Inside the capsule beds of Hyve Basel

Where to stay: Hyve Basel

Located just a short walk from the main train Station, Hyve Basel offers a range of accommodation options that cater to all kinds of travellers and budgets. If you are looking for your own space, they have a bunch of full equipped apartments that come with their own private balcony. The wood panelled private doubles and family ensuites are beautifully designed with large windows that let in a lot of a light. The most popular section of the Hotel are their hostel style Japanese pod dorms. These are some of the best designed pod dorms I have seen in any hostel in Europe. The mattress is super comfy, there is a plug point for charging gadgets, plus a huge bedside mirror that makes the pod feel less claustrophobic. Plus, there is an air vent so that there is a good circulation of air.

Fantastic outdoor terrace at Hyve Basel
Games day at Hyve Basel

The shared bathrooms and showers worked really well and are cleaned regularly. A big highlight of Hyve Basel is the common room shared lounge which is popular not only with guests but locals from Basel living in the area. The common room by day is a great space to work from plus there is excellent coffee. In the evenings, it gets a bit more of a living room vibe with people eating, reading, working or maybe gathering around the fire on the beautiful outdoor terrace. There is a regular programme of events, from live comedy to board game evenings to cooked meals. The hostel also has an excellent self-catering kitchen which is a big plus for visiting Basel. There is a local convenience store just around the corner plus a Coop Supermarket further up the road, beside the train Station. Other notable facilities include a washing machine and dryer for the affordable price of 5CHF and also a pool table area. Last but not least, the hosts and staff here are super helpful. Esra, Suzanne, Alex, Sarah- everyone I met were super helpful and gave me great tips.

Plus, you can get 15% off your stay with the code: CAPSULE15  at Hyve Basel and at any of their other locations , which currently include Lucerne and  Capsule Hotel Alpine Garden

Street-art -The best spots in Basel

Basel has a diverse and interesting street art scene and everywhere you walk in the city, you will find an eclectic mix of murals, graffiti and installations, especially on the outskirts of the city. You will find striking graffiti and murals along the tracks between the Swiss SBB railway station and Schwarzwaldbrücke bridge, as well as around Schänzli near St. Jakob-Park and the Sommercasino. The harbour also features impressive street art. Additionally, the Bell site showcases Basel’s largest installation, a 1,700 m² wall created by over 30 artists during the Change of Colours event in August 2020.

Here are my favourite spots:

1.Gerbergässlein

4001 Basel

Commissioned by the rock bar L’Unique across the alley, this is probably Basel’s most famous street artwork – it is a massive artwork featuring an array of world famous musicians, from the Beatles to Jimi Hendrix to Ozzy.

Malaga loves Basel, by Kohlenberg

2. Malaga loves Basel – Kohlenberg

Kohlenberg 13, Basel

Dest Jones from Basel and urban artist Lalone from Malaga both created this mural as a homage to Pablo Picasso and his influence on the cities of Basel and Malaga.

Sommercasino

3. Sommercasino

Münchensteinerstrasse 1,

4052 Basel

A former society house dating from the 19th century, the Sommercasino besides being a popular hotspot for concerts and parties, is also a popular hangout spot for local graffiti artists and you will find some impressive artworks and motifs on the entire facade.

4.Space Invaders

Clarastrasse,

4005 Basel

Across Basel you will find 20 Space Invaders by Paris based Invader, a leading light of the urban art world. Of the 20 pieces, the most famous one is in Kleinbasel, around the Corner from the Messe Basel. Created in 2019,The Golden Pot of the Art World”, is one of the biggest in the world.

5. Port

Uferstrasse, 4057 Basel

Along the remote edges of Klybeck right upto the “border triangle” aka Dreiländereck where the three countries meet, you will find a great mix of murals and graffiti art adorning everything from the walls of industrial buildings to freight Wagons and also in the culture space, Holzpark Klybeck.

Kunstmuseum Basel

3 great museums you can visit for free in Basel

1.Kunstmuseum Basel

Kunstmuseum Basel houses the second largest public art collection in Switzerland, after the Kunsthaus Zürich and is listed as a heritage site of national significance.Its lineage extends back to the Amerbach Cabinet, which included a collection of works by Hans Holbein purchased by the city of Basel and the University of Basel in 1661, which made it the first municipally owned and therefore, open to the public museum in the world. Its collection is distinguished by an impressively wide historic span, from the early 15th century up to the immediate present. Its various areas of emphasis give it international standing as one of the most significant museums of its kind. These encompass: paintings and drawings by artists active in the Upper Rhine region between 1400 and 1600, and on the art of the 19th to 21st centuries.

The collection can be visited for free on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 5 to 6 p.m., Wednesdays and Fridays from 5 to 8 p.m., and the first Sunday of each month.

2.Museum Tinguely

A visit to Museum Tinguely is a must for an insight into the life and genius of Jean Tinguely, one of Basels most celebrated citizens for his pioneering work in the field of kinetic works.

Spanning his career which last more than 4 decades, the museum is the largest collection of his works, from early, filigree reliefs to his monumental machine sculptures from the 1980s.

Inspired by Tinguely, Museum Tinguely is very playful and interactive, hosting diverse events and exhibitions that will bring out your inner artist.

The museum is free to visit late on Thursdays between 6 – 9 pm.

3.Hoosesaggmuseum

In the heart of the charming and steep Imbergässlein, once the street of Basels spice merchants, lies the fascinating Hoosesaggmuseum (Pants Pocket Museum). Theres no entry fee, but also no entrance possible to this museum- the entire collection is displayed within a two-foot-by-two-foot window in the door of Dagmar and Matthias Vergeat’s 600-year-old home, tucked away in this narrow pedestrian alley in Basels Old Town.

This unique museum showcases miniature collections small enough to fit in your pocket. Anyone with a private collection of tiny objects of more than 30 items can display them here for a limited time, adding a personal and whimsical touch to the exhibits.

4. Great places to eat in Basel

Mother and Son: The amazing Antonio and Grazia from Sapori Del Sud
The famous Pastrami sandwich from Sapori Del Sud

1.Sapori Del Sud

Right next to the Spalentor lies a slice of Italian and Sicilian heaven – Sapori Del Sud is a takeaway run by the affable Antonio Russo and his mother, Grazia who specialise in preparing paninos and their signature pastrami sandwiches, which in a bite takes me back to New York. The prices are very reasonable – 11 CHF for a Jumbo Sandwich, which is enough to feed two people.

2. Za Zaa

A stylish Syrian-Lebanese eatery in the heart of Basel, Za Zaa  offers a nice range of dishes, from traditional salads, excellent hummus, both cold and warm mezze and great falafel.

Lily Maxim Basel

3. Lily Maxim

Serving a mix of classic Thai, Indian and Chinese dishes, if you are looking for an  unpretentious dining experience with fast, good service, then you will like Lily Maxim. The food is adapted to local tastes but there is a good range of condiments to customise the dish to your style.

4. Klara

Another excellent option for dining is Klara, a food court that serves culinary treats from Japan, Argentina, Thailand and Africa. Locals rave about the hummus and pita from Yoya Pitabar and the pasta and pinsa from Lamia Pastaria. Our pick of the bunch was the Vietnamese Diner,

Nón Lá Vietnamese Corner. Sabrina loved the Bun Bo Nam Bo and I tried the Banh Mi with their special lemongrass chicken and it was fab.

Indian thali at Markthalle Basel

5. Markthalle

Located near the train station in a beautiful listed building that originally served as the local market lies the Markthalle. Since 2014 it has been repurposed into an international food Court featuring dishes from all around the world at very reasonable prices. There is a great variety of choice here,  from delicious empanadas to ceviche to kebabs and also delicious curries. When we visited, late on the weekend, we also found an excellent local preloved clothes market packed with locals.

6. Coffee at Café Unternehmen

This architectural gem dating back to 1912 was formerly the Swiss Volksbank and is Basels unofficial living room where you will find people hunched over their laptops working away, tired shoppers lounging on the stylish Eames chairs sipping on coffee or locals enjoying their excellent terrace, scoffing one of their delicious range of cakes and pastries.

Top tip: Dominated by its vibrant rouge red 16th century town hall, the Marktplatz is a definitely worth wandering, especially during the week when theres a busy weekly market on where locals come to buy fresh vegetables, fruit and flowers.

7. Jakob’s Basler Leckerly

No trip to Basel is complete without sampling the famous Basler Leckerli biscuits, a ginger biscuit popular in the region that reminded us a lot of the popular German Xmas treat, Lebkuchen gingerbread cookies. The place to try the Basler Leckerli is Jakob’s Basler Leckerly, the oldest biscuit manufacturer in Switzerland, dating back to 1753.

5. Swimming, Basel style, down the Rhine river

Life by the Rhine river in Basel, spring, summer or autumn, is defined by swimming with the tide in their ubiquitous Wickelfischs and then relaxing in the multiple Buvettes lining the riverbank.

Wickelfisch and also Buvette culture

In late spring and summer, the most popular thing that locals do to relax and cool down, is to go for a swim down the Rhine river. Everytime we walked down Kleinbasel, we saw people of all ages drifting down the river. Most people use their Wickelfisch”, a swim bag where they can store their clothes and valuables securely, to float down on the gentle current through the city. There are plenty of places on Kleinbasel to dry yourself. I was super impressed at the number of showers and toilet facilities along the river – this city really knows how to enjoy summer. Plus, don’t forget all the marvellous buvettes for enjoying an ice cold drink. Our tip is Flora, which has a great selection of affordable wines and beers on tap.

Note: You can hire a Wickelfisch from the Basel Tourism Information Point for 10 CHF. Also worth remembering, sometimes the current can be pretty strong so it is advisable to check conditions before you go for a dip – Basel tourism website is a good place to check.

6. Hop on a Rhine River Ferry for just 2 CHF!

My kind of Rhine Cruise – for the princely sum of 2 Swiss francs you can cross the river in Basel: Choose from the four Rhine river ferries Wild Maa”, Leu”, Vogel Gryff” and Ueli”, which all link the Grossbasel to Kleinbasel. Attached to a long wire cable, the boats are driven purely by the current of the Rhine itself.

1 of 4 ferries to cross the Rhine: after roaming the scenic area of St Alban, an upscale residential district of Basel dotted with villas and Gothic and baroque merchants’ houses, we hopped on the Wilde Maa ferry from St Alban in Grossbasel to Kleinbasel.

Klybeck

7. Exploring Klybeck

If you are looking for something bit more alternative, then I definitely recommend a visit to the former industrial district of Klybeck on the banks of the Rhine, which has been a popular magnet for artists and culture lovers since it was formed back in 2014. Holzpark Klybeck which reminds me a lot of Holzmarkt25 in Berlin has lots of cool street art pieces and is packed with pop-up bars and restaurants made from shipping containers and wooden pallets. I recommend having a beer or cocktail at the friendly Patschifig. Also, recommend the rustic Landstelle, by the Rhine river next to Holzpark for a refreshing beer or cocktail after a dip in the river from the nearby jetty.

8.  Basel for free- take a self guided walking tour

If you are short on time and prefer the independence of exploring the city on foot at your own pace, then the free Basel City App is the one you should download. There is a wealth of history and stories in every corner of Basel’s Old Town and this app, gives you the lowdown of all the stories and places you can discover. You have 5 different walking tours to choose from and they all start and finish on the Marktplatz.

9. Basel Nightlife

Basel’s nightlife punches above its weight for a city of its size. There’s something for everyone. You will find a nice mix of easygoing pubs and also cozy, dimly lit bars spread through the the  ever-popular Steinenvorstadt to the lively Rheingasse to the hip Klybeck district. If you are looking for a nice after work drink by the Rhine river, you cannot go wrong with Landstelle.

Then there are underground clubs like Nordstern, pulsing with electronic beats until the early hours.

Getting around Basel

Getting around Basel is a dream, thanks to its efficient and well-connected transport system. The city’s backbone is its extensive tram and bus network, run by BVB. Trams crisscross the city, while buses fill in the gaps.

Visitors staying at Hyve Basel get a fantastic perk – the Basel Card for free! This magic card allows you free use of public transport and discounts on attractions. If you don’t have the Basel Card, you can buy tickets from machines at stops or via the BVB app.

Basel’s compact size makes it perfect to explore by foot or bike. As mentioned earlier, for a one of a kind experience, hop on one of the Rhine River ferries. These cable-guided boats offer a wonderful way to cross the river.

Plus, if you are coming from the airport, Bus 50 will get you into the city centre in about 20 minutes. This bus is included in your free Basel Card. (remember to download it onto your phone). And if you are arriving by train, the Basel SBB station is right in the heart of the city and you can easily walk to Hyve Basel.

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Lucerne on a budget https://budgettraveller.org/lucerne-on-a-budget/ https://budgettraveller.org/lucerne-on-a-budget/#respond Fri, 13 Dec 2024 06:09:25 +0000 https://budgettraveller.org/?p=20779 Tucked away in the heart of the country and nestled between lakes and mountains, if there was one city to sum up the breathtaking natural beauty of Switzerland, it would have to be Lucerne. The moment you step foot from the train station and set your eyes on this city, surrounded by the dreamy Lake Lucerne, mountains soaring in the background, you just stand in awe. This is a must visit on any Switzerland itinerary and here is how to enjoy  Lucerne on a budget. 

PS If you are planning a trip to Switzerland , here is my brand new guide to Switzerland on a budget and also my brand new guide to Zurich on a budget. Also checkout my earlier guide to the best things to do in Chur

Where to stay in Lucerne on a budget

Capsule Hotel Chapter Lucerne

 

Capsule Hotel Chapter Lucerne is a fantastic option to have in terms of price, location and the facilities. Nestled in the heart of the city, steps from the iconic Chapel Bridge, Lion Monument, the Old Town plus with a Coop supermarket next door, the location is perfect. 

The innovative pod-style beds, inspired by Japanese capsule hotels but featuring Swiss design, are arranged in double-decker configuration. For additional privacy, you can opt for a lower pod by paying a small premium.

Accessibility is prioritized with a specialized wheelchair-accessible pod. The hostel offers gender-segregated shower and restroom facilities, plus a fully accessible bathroom for guests with disabilities.

Security is managed through smart technology – each pod’s sliding door locks via a smartphone app using Bluetooth, or alternatively through a 4-digit PIN provided at check-in. This single system grants access to both your room and individual pod.

Inside each pod, you’ll find thoughtful amenities: a plush mattress, adjustable lighting, mirror, and garment hooks. A whisper-quiet ventilation system ensures comfort, while the interior decor features cloud murals overhead and Swiss Alpine imagery, adding a local touch to your stay. Luggage and footwear can be stored beneath the bottom pods, with cable locks available for security. A separate luggage storage room provides an additional storage option.

Then there is the stunning shared space, a glass-walled lounge which shapeshifts from peaceful morning coffee spot to perfect coworking spot to evening entertainment hub.

Whether you’re looking to get some work done, read a book from their wonderful library of books on their comfy leather sofa, join the weekly movie nights, catch a comedy show, or bond with fellow guests over board games, there’s always something for guests here.

There is an onsite bar where you can enjoy baked goods, pizza, flammkuchen at an affordable price plus a selection of wines, beers and soft drinks if you are thirsty. At under 80 CHF a night, Chapter Lucerne proves that thoughtful design, comfort, and community does not need to come with a luxury price tag.

Plus, you can get 15% off your stay with the code: CAPSULE15  at the Capsule Hotel Chapter Lucerne and at any of their other locations , which currently include Zurich and Basel

Free things to do in Lucerne

Lucerne panorama from Museggmauer

1.Visit the Musegg Wall

An ancient fortification that protected the city in medieval times, serves as a historic landmark, a home to Lucerne’s wildlife and an excellent place to take in the views of the city and the surrounding mountains. Nestled in the heart of the Old Town and stretching over an incredible 800 metres, navigating the Musegg Wall and its nine towers is a wonderful way to drink in Lucerne’s history. The 31 metre high, Zyt tower houses a clock face on its exterior that can be viewed from as far away as the Lake. Jackdaws, common lizards and insects call this well preserved wall, their home, and is undoubtedly one of Lucerne’s best preserved historical. Keep in mind that during the winter months (November-March), the Wall and Towers remains closed for visitors. 

2. Visit the Lion Monument

The ‘Lion of Lucerne’ designed by Bertel Thorvaldsen, is a moving tribute to those Swiss Guards who perished in battle, during the French Revolution. The rock relief carved into the cliff face is a spectacular 10 metres long and 6 metres high but rather than the size of the sculpture, or the grandeur of the carving, it is the expression of mortal pain on the lion’s face that is the most arresting. Situated in a city park in the centre of town , the stunning grotto with the poignant sandstone carving allows visitors to step back in time and pay homage to the lives of six hundred brave souls.

3. The wooden bridges of Lucern-Chapel Bridge and Chaff Bridge

Lucerne’s Chapel Bridge is Europe’s oldest covered bridge. Made from wood, the footbridge traverses the River Reuss diagonally, and its gorgeous interior paintings depict several scenes from Lucerne’s history. The beautiful bridge suffered fire damage in 1993 and several of the paintings were destroyed at the time but have now been lovingly restored. The bridge stands as a symbol for the city and its central Water Tower and the bridge with masses of colourful hanging flowers – are emblematic of the city’s beauty. 

The smaller, less well-known Chaff Bridge is not to be ignored. This bridge also contains a number of panelled paintings although the theme of some of these paintings is death and the ever changing cycle of life. Built later than Chapel Bridge, not only is Chaff Bridge shorter, the purpose of its building was to connect the flour mills to the Old Town. Bread was made in bakeries in the New Town, to lessen the chance of a fire breaking out in the Old town, and the Chaff Bridge was an important means of connecting the people of Old Town with an important source of sustenance.

4. Swim in the Lake at Ufschötti

If you are a sun worshipper and crave the feel of a sandy beach between your toes, then look no further – a dip in Lake Lucerne is possible during the summer months at the swathe of green space known as as the Ufschötti. The park is south of Lucerne’s main train station and consists of a strip of sand 200 metres long, adjacent to the Lake. Have a picnic in the green space behind the beach, shaded by trees or enjoy a barbecue. During the summer months, a beach bar serves hot and cold drinks. Other amenities include toilets as well as showers to be used after a refreshing dip in the Lake. Sip on a cold drink and look onto the beauty of Lake Lucerne, shrouded by mountains in the background .

5. Visit the painted squares of the old Town of Lucerne

One of the best things about strolling through the Old Town of Lucerne is its pedestrian only streets, enabling the visitor to take their time, drinking in the historical sights – one of which is the incredibly beautiful painted squares scattered about town. Start at the Weinmarkt, originally the site of a fish market, but now pay special attention to the beautiful fountain with its octagonal basin and column made of limestone. Of note are the frescoes on the façade of the Hotel des Balances and also the special fresco depicting the miracle of Jesus turning water into wine. At the Hirschenplatz, you will find the Kornmarkt – a trading hall, a granary and then the Town Hall – in its long history. Do pay attention to the facades of the historical houses in the square. The Mühlenplatz is Lucerne’s largest historic square, but it is Kapellplatz that is home to the colourful Fritschi Fountain. 

6. Go shopping at one of the many excellent 2nd Hand clothing shops in Lucerne

1.FIZZEN Lucerne

Mixture of well curated fashion pieces, both brand new and vintage plus accessories and unique gifts make this a must visit in Lucerne. They have outlets in Basel, Bern and Zürich too.

2. The Secondhand

At The Secondhand there is a nice selection of second-hand clothing for women and men.The Secondhand also conducts workshops where you learn how to patch or even color your favorite piece.

3. Ziitlos

Second Hand: quite retro

In the Ziitlos branches at Mythenstrasse 7 in Lucerne and Industriestrasse 17, the name says it all. Here everyone who is looking for the very special outfit from days past in Lucerne or wants to browse for cool unique items will find what they are looking for. Stylish home and fashion accessories can also be discovered in the small, fine second hand shops.

For a few francs more..

Swiss Transport Museum

One of Switzerland’s most popular museums, the Swiss Transport Museum is dedicated to documenting and exhibiting all things related to modes of transport – cars, trains, boats and aircraft. The presence of a planetarium and a cinema complete the museum experience. Exhibits include various reconstructions of Swiss rail lines, examples of road vehicles, a Car Theatre, a Space exhibit house, various Swiss aircraft, aerial cableway exhibits, and lastly a collection of artworks by Swiss artist Hans Erni. Swiss Travel Pass holders get up to 50 % discount for museum entry.

Day trip from Lucerne- Mount Rigi

Adored by writers, poets and painters , the majestic Mount Rigi occupies a special place in the heart of locals and classic tourist literature and is the perfect day trip from Lucerne.

I recommend grabbing lunch to go from the excellent local Bachmann bakery at Lucerne train station before hopping on the train to Arth-Goldau. From there, you can transfer to the historic cogwheel train, Europe’s first mountain railway that dates back to 1871. The journey to the top of Rigi Kulm takes around 30-40 minutes with great panoramic views over the lake, passing a few dozen grazing cows and working farms from you sit in the comfort of the beautifully restored historic carriages.

From the top, the views are spectacular. On a clear day, from Rigi Kulm you can see Matterhorn and even as the Black Forest in the distance. There is a range of fantastic hikes from the Rigi Kulm or you can enjoy some classic Swiss cuisine at the Rigi Kulm hotel restaurant. You can then hike down ( takes 3 hours) or take the cogwheel train to Vitznau and then hop on a scenic lake cruise that takes you back to Lucerne. Train to Arth Goldau, the cogwheel train to Rigi Kulm and back to Vitznau and the lake cruise are all covered by the Swiss Travel System pass so definitely recommend investing in the pass.

Top tip: Invest in the Swiss Travel Pass

The Swiss Travel Pass gives you free unlimited use of trains, trams, boats and buses, from 3 to 15 days with purchase of the pass. The day trip to Mount Rigid including return trip by boat from Vitznau to Lucerne is free with the Swiss Travel Pass. Tip: Choose the Swiss Travel Flex where you travel unlimited for 3 days in a month (267 CHF). The pass also provides unlimited use of public transport and access for free to 500 museums across Switzerland.

 

Aside from regional transport, public transport in cities is inclusive too – like buses, trams and funiculars. Another wonderful aspect of purchasing the pass includes 50% off mountain railway tickets. There are a number of different options for buying a specific pass and it’s well worth doing your research and buying a pass that caters to your specific needs. Itineraries for travel on consecutive days are available or the flexible pass option. Passes for 3,4,6, 8 or 15 consecutive days can be bought. One of the main bonuses of having the pass is not having to queue up to buy tickets. This feels very luxurious and certainly lifts the stress of travelling in a new country. People under 26 years get a 30 percent discount on travel.

Some of the advantages of the travel pass include not being tied down to a rigid itinerary. With the flexibility to travel far and wide, this certainly enlarges the scope for travel. Switzerland with its wealth of clear mountain lakes and rugged peaks is the ideal place to explore by boat and mountain railway. With the additional option to visit over 500 museums with the pass, buying a Swiss Travel Pass ensures that visiting Switzerland is an affordable and rich travelling experience.

Where to eat in Lucerne

Bachmann Bakery 

If you are planning a day trip hiking up Mount Rigi or Pilates and looking for a nice lunch sandwich or snack on the go from the train station, Bachmann Bakery which has been serving locals since 1897, is the place to go.

Besides a range of tasty filling sandwiches, if you have a sweet tooth, you can sample local specialities like the local Birnenwegge, a puff pastry with a spiced pear puree filling or the Bündner Nusstorte, a traditional Swiss tart from Graubünden.

Chäs Barmettler

The ultimate bargain for foodies has to be the hot cheescake tartlets aka Chäschüechli which you can buy at Chäs Barmettler for only 2 CHF. It is a must in Lucerne.

Wirtshaus Galliker 

If you are looking to sample traditional Swiss cuisine in Lucerne, this is the place. Serving hungry locals since 1856 the Galliker family’s closely guarded recipes and key to their popularity are a range of dishes on the menu, from Tête de veau, tripe, potato rösti with bratwurst sausages and onion sauce to traditional local puff pastry pies (my choice, served with a mushroom sauce-so good).

Where to Drink in Lucerne

Bar Frankys

If you are looking for friendly service, great cocktails and good music, Franky’s is the place to go to in Lucerne. Located on the ground floor of the Hotel Alpina, not far from the train station, you will find the bar. Besides a great range of spirits, they also service really delicious stone baked pizzas. It is that kind of place where you will make friends and end up having a few beers. This is ,however, a smokers’ bar, a rare exception in smoke-free Switzerland so keep that in mind.

Shamrock Bar

When asking locals, their favorite local bars, Shamrock’s name came up a few times. You stand at the bar, grab a local beer on Guinness on draft if that’s your drink of choice and if you stay long enough, by the end of the night, everyone at the bar and in the pub is your friend – that’s how nice it is. On Mondays they run their legendary chicken wings night where they cost just 1 CHF-bargain for Switzerland.

Chapter Lucerne

If you are looking for a nice bite to eat in the hostel, then you can treat yourself to the excellent flammkuchen (14 CHF)  or pizzas (14-18 CHF) along with a glass of wine (6.80 CHF) or beer (5.50 CHF). Also worth remembering that on Thursdays it is pizza and beer night at the hostel from 5-10pm, for the bargain price of 15 CHF.

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Switzerland on a budget: 15 tips https://budgettraveller.org/switzerland-on-a-budget-15-tips/ https://budgettraveller.org/switzerland-on-a-budget-15-tips/#respond Tue, 10 Dec 2024 08:06:24 +0000 https://budgettraveller.org/?p=16448 First, let me be clear. Switzerland is an expensive country and according to a study by Omio, their trains are the most expensive in the world. On average travelling by train here is 30% more expensive than British trains. So, you may wonder, why as a BudgetTraveller  am I recommending visiting Switzerland? Simply put, Switzerland is unmissable and one of the most jaw dropping, beautiful countries in the world I have been to. I am saying that as someone who lives in Germany which has its fair share of spectacular natural scenery. Trains in Germany are nice too but they don’t have a tendency to run on time whereas trains in Switzerland are extremely punctual. Plus, trains here are designed to enjoy the majestic mountain scenery, idyllic valleys and villages that Switzerland is famous for. Trains here are at least 50% better than trains in UK and even Germany so it is definitely worth the investment. Still, with a bit of planning you can save money for your Switzerland trip and below I have shared my 15 tips on how to visit Switzerland on a budget.

1.Buy the Swiss Travel Pass

The Swiss Travel Pass gives you free unlimited use of trains, trams, boats and buses, from 3 to 15 days with purchase of the pass. Tip: Choose the Swiss Travel Flex where you travel unlimited for 3 days in a month (267 CHF). The pass also provides unlimited use of public transport and access for free to 500 museums across Switzerland.

Aside from regional transport, public transport in cities is inclusive too – like buses, trams and funiculars. Another wonderful aspect of purchasing the pass includes 50% off mountain railway tickets. There are a number of different options for buying a specific pass and it’s well worth doing your research and buying a pass that caters to your specific needs. Itineraries for travel on consecutive days are available or the flexible pass option. Passes for 3,4,6, 8 or 15 consecutive days can be bought. One of the main bonuses of having the pass is not having to queue up to buy tickets. This feels very luxurious and certainly lifts the stress of travelling in a new country. People under 26 years get a 30 percent discount on travel.

Some of the advantages of the travel pass include not being tied down to a rigid itinerary. With the flexibility to travel far and wide, this certainly enlarges the scope for travel. Switzerland with its wealth of clear mountain lakes and rugged peaks is the ideal place to explore by boat and mountain railway. With the additional option to visit over 500 museums with the pass, buying a Swiss Travel Pass ensures that visiting Switzerland is an affordable and rich travelling experience.

2. Take the scenic route

The Swiss Travel Pass also includes boat services, allowing you to enjoy a full day of ferry rides on Lake Geneva, Lake Lucerne, or Lake Zurich, all covered by your pass. I hopped on a cruise boat on Lake Geneva on a gloriously sunny early day in Autumn and it was the perfect way to enjoy the stunning landscapes and charming lakeside towns that surround this iconic Swiss-French lake. Popular stops on the cruise include Vevey (birthplace of Chaplin), Montreux plus a magical view of the medieval fortress, Chillon Castle near Montreux.

Grab a calzone for as little as 3 CHF at Coop Supermarket!

3. Have a picnic on the train or boat

Most train stations in Switzerland have a Coop or Migros supermarket where you can load up on local cheese, sushi or salads, hot food section (Veggie Calzone for €3) plus an extensive selection of Swiss chocolate. Must try is Rivella – a typically Swiss, milk-based fizzy drink.

Bogentrakt Hostel, Chur
Capsule Hotel Alpine Garden Zurich

4. Stay in a hostel

If you are on a budget, Hostelling is the way to go. My favorites are the Bogentrakt Hostel in Chur ( Chur is a lovely wee town that you should definitely consider for your next trip to Switzerland- checkout my recent guide on Free things to do in Chur  ) , the Capsule Hotels Switzerland are a fantastic small chain that offers spacious, comfortable Japanese pod style beds where you can enjoy your own privacy at the fraction of a cost of a room: You can get 15% off your stay with the code: CAPSULE15  at the Capsule Hotel Alpine Garden and at any of their other locations , include Lucerne and Basel

Checkout my review of the Capsule Hotel Alpine Garden in my brand new guide on how to enjoy Zurich on a budget

5. Lower your average daily costs and cook your own meals

Eating out, along with alcohol will be your two major expenses in Switzerland. Luckily, many of the hostels will have their own self catering kitchen so you can prepare your meals and lunches. One of our favourite travel accessories is a good Tupperware box where we can store sandwiches and I also travel with my Indian spices in case we want to whip up a curry.

6. Sleep in Straw

Checkout ‘Sleeping in Straw’, a service where travellers and hikers can sleep in barns of farms across Switzerland for as little as 30CHF including breakfast!

7. Use a reusable water bottle 

The opportunities to refill your bottle are endless in Switzerland thanks to their excellent public fountains: Zurich alone has 1200 public fountains!

8. Try 100 types of biscuits at the Kambly Factory

Skip breakfast, lunch and visit the Kambly factory store in the picturesque village of Trubschachen which has 100 biscuit varieties to choose from, with free samples!

9. Free museums in Switzerland (and free chocolate)

The Swiss Travel Pass gives you free access to 500 museums. This includes Maison Cailler in Broc, Switzerland’s oldest chocolate brand where you can indulge in multiple free tasting opportunities including the infamous all-you-can-eat selection of Cailler chocolates.  Many museums in Switzerland are free: CERN in Geneva and the Nature Museum in Solothurn for example. Some cities offer free access to museums and galleries on certain days. Most museums in Zurich offer free entry on Wednesdays.

10. Hike to work off all the chocolate and cheese

With all that free chocolate and biscuits, you will need to walk it off and luckily, Switzerland’s offers 65.000 kilometres worth of hiking trails. To plan your hike, use the Schweizmobil website or download their app

11. Don’t drink

One way to save money in Switzerland is by avoiding alcohol. A beer will cost around 8 CHF while a mixer or cocktail will set you back by 15 CHF.

In Chur, along with free public transportation you get access to local museums and also public swimming baths like this one for free, with your guest card.

12. Free public transportation in Switzerland

In various Swiss cities, complimentary access to local public transportation network is extended to guests. Upon your check-in at lodging establishments in Bern, Basel, Lucerne, Lausanne, Montreux, Geneva, and throughout the entire Canton of Ticino, you will be provided with a pass that grants you unrestricted use of local transport for the duration of your visit. In Chur, you get access to local museums and also their very scenic outdoor swimming pools too.

13. Rent a bike 

Riding a bike may be one of the most eco-friendly ways to get from one point to another in a city or for exploring the outskirts of the city in a slow but contemplative way. Swiss cities like Zurich, Bern, Geneva, Neuchâtel, Zug or the Canton of Valais, have the option of renting a bike for absolutely free! In Geneva, ‘Züri rollt’ provides bikes with a valid ID and a 20 CHF refundable deposit to rent a bike for a day, or in some cases – a few hours. E-bikes and cargo bikes are available for 30CHF/day. The main bike station is at Zurich Main Station at Europaplatz. Bikes are available daily, all year round from 8am to 9.30 pm. It’s worthwhile checking out other Swiss cities for bike rental options, which might be cheaper than other transportation options.

Free walking tours are a great way to get your bearings plus meeting new friends!

14. Take a free walking tour

In Switzerland, major cities like Zurich, Geneva, and Bern have free walking tours. Here are a few tips on finding and enjoying free walking tours in Switzerland.

Free Walking Tours Switzerland

Free Walking Tours Switzerland offer informative and entertaining tours at no upfront cost.

Check the Tourist Information Point

Also check the local tourist information centre in the city you are in. They can provide details about any scheduled free walking tours, including starting points and times.

Check with your hostel

Plus check with your hostel who may run their own free walking tour of the city.

 

15. Don’t forget: Travel Insurance 

Tourists from EU-/EFTA-countries or United Kingdom (UK) are covered by EHIC scheme to receive medical treatment during their trip to Switzerland (holidays or business trips). Nationals of other countries must have proper Travel insurance to cover the costs of treatment in Switzerland. I recommend Safety Wing 

 

Disclaimer: This post was made possible thanks to a storytelling project about the Swiss Travel Pass in partnership with the Swiss Travel System and Switzerland Tourism. All views, good and bad, are entirely my own.

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Zurich on a budget: 9 tips that will save you a lot of €€€ https://budgettraveller.org/zurich-on-a-budget/ https://budgettraveller.org/zurich-on-a-budget/#respond Tue, 10 Dec 2024 07:57:54 +0000 https://budgettraveller.org/?p=20738

Introduction to Zurich

Perched beside the picturesque Lake Zürich, Zürich offers the best of all worlds with its incredible public transport system, a picture postcard old town that unfolds on both side of the Limmat river, tonnes of culture and world class museums that would be the envy of any European city, plus a fantastic bar and clubbing scene – no surprise that the city consistently ranks among the world’s most livable cities. It is also one of the most expensive cities in the world but if you know where and when to go, Zurich has some budget friendly things to do. Curious? Checkout my guide to Zurich on a budget.

Where to stay in Zurich on a budget

Capsule Hotel Alpine Garden 

Situated directly opposite check-in 1 of Zurich airport is the Capsule Hotel Alpine Garden with 144 capsules in 8 bedrooms, separate bathrooms, a small gym area and a café area for breakfast, drinks and snacks or just to relax.

If you have a late flight out or arriving late at night and are looking for an affordable and comfortable option to stay in Zurich airport, this is the place. Booked at least a month in advance you can get rates between 60-70 CHF.

Plus, you can get 15% off your stay with the code: CAPSULE15  at the Capsule Hotel Alpine Garden and at any of their other locations , which currently include Lucerne and Basel

Stacked two high, the capsules are a Japanese style pod bed but designed in Switzerland. You can reserve the bottom bunk pod for an extra few francs. Rooms are mixed gender but there is a women only dorm if you prefer. There is also a capsule for people in wheelchairs and 5 capsules with bigger sliding doors for those with reduced mobility.

There are separate male and female communal toilet/shower rooms plus a disabled toilet/shower room. The capsules have a sliding door which locks and the key is via an app on your smartphone with bluetooth enabled or via a 4 digit pin code which you receive while checking in. In this way you have a key for both the room and your capsule this way.

The capsule on the inside includes a comfortable mattress, lighting, mirror, a couple of clothes hooks, very quiet ventilation system, mural of clouds on the ceiling and Swiss alpine scenes on the interior to give you a nice local feel. There is space under the lower capsule to store your luggage and shoes. They have cable locks if you need, as well as a separate luggage storage room.

The star feature of the hotel is the lounge. There is a host on duty 24-7. There are a bunch of cowering desks with plugs that have great views of the terminal window so a good spot for working and people watching.

A nice selection of wines are available and also cocktails on demand. There is a supermarket in the terminal about a 10 minute walk away but if you are feeling lazy, there are snacks like Pot Noodles available plus they make excellent flammkuchen and pizza from the oven (cookies too).

Breakfast contains cereals, fresh croissants, jams etc. There is a coffee machine too. The full continental breakfast is around 14 CHF.

There are no TV sets on the premises. There are groups of tables where you can play board games or chess with friends. There is also a Book Swap shelf where you can grab a book. The decor is a low key Danish Modern if that makes any sense. All in all, a very relaxed vibe.

Things to do in Zurich for free

1. The Secret Doors of Zurich

This might sound like something out of an Indiana Jones movie… but what if I was to tell you that there are three hidden doors in the heart of Zurich, each a time capsule and a portal into the towns ancient roman history and they only can be accessed with the help of a key…and you can get that key- here’s how.

Hidden in full sight of tourists and locals, hidden in an alley, an underground garage, or beneath the Lindenhof, history buffs can discover archaeological sites throughout Zurich’s Old Town. In these Portals or “archaeological windows” as they are referred to, you can discover relics like the remains of a Roman fort, ancient pile dwellings, and the Ehgraben sewer, each site, a magical insight in how medieval towns handled waste.

Most sites are open to the public for free, including those in the Parkhaus Opéra and Thermengasse. However, a key is needed to access the Ehgraben, Lindenhof-Keller, Stadtmauerkeller, and Brunngasse and you can obtain this key from the Stadthaus (City Hall) at Stadthausquai 17, Counter S, Monday to Saturday (check for hours). You will need to deposit your own ID as security deposit so bring that along. You will also get a map of all the sights for this magical quest.

Uetliburg , with a stunning panoramic view of Zurich and the lake is the perfect escape from the hustle and bustle of the city

2. Best viewpoint in Zurich: Hike unto Uetliburg

Popular with locals, hikers and bikers looking for a break from the hustle and bustle of the city, Uetliberg is the perfect escape. Towering 2850 feet above sea level, Zurich’s very own mountain, offers one of the best panoramic views of the city. If you are lucky on a clear day, you get not only stunning views of the city but also of the Alps.

Uetliberg gets busier in late Autumn when thick fog blankets the entire city and also in winter when the hiking trails leading from the summit become popular for sledding.

You have the choice of hiking upto to the summit or if you are not feeling top energetic, there is a short train ride from the main train station and then it is a short hike up to the viewpoint. There is a cafe and bar at the viewpoint if you want a coffee or drink while enjoying those beautiful views.

3. Museums in Zurich you can visit for free

Before we talk about the art, as an architecture nerd I have to tell you, like the Fondation Beyeler in Basel, 1.Kunsthaus Zürich has to be one of THE most beautiful museums in the world. In 2021, David Chipperfield built a light-filled, cuboid extension that is just as much a highlight as the art presented within. Now to the art. The museum houses one of the grandest collections of contemporary art, from the largest collection of Munch paintings outside Norway plus works by Alberto Giacometti, then you will find famous names such as Picasso, van Gogh, and Chagall, Pop Art pieces by Warhol and Hamilton and other artists such as Rothko, Twombly, Beuys and Baselitz.

All this plus a design store, a bar and a “Garden of Art”, makes this museum unmissable.On Wednesdays you can get free admission to the entire collection (except to exhibitions), which also stands for children under the age of 14.

The 2.Kunsthalle Zurich can be visiting for free on Thursdays, from 5pm and if you have the Zurich Card, you get a 20% discount.

The Swiss National Museum in Zurich , also known as the 3.Landesmuseum Zürich is another museum you can visit for free with the Zurich card. It is one of the most important cultural and historical museums in Switzerland. It showcases the country’s rich heritage through extensive collections of artefacts, art, and historical objects, ranging from prehistoric times to the present day. The museum features exhibitions on Swiss culture, archaeology, and art, offering insight into the nation’s diverse history. Its iconic building, a blend of historic and modern architecture is a dream to photograph.

4. Where to eat and drink in Zurich on a budget

Edi's Weinstube Cheapest place to drink in Zurich
Edi’s Weinstube: Cheapest place to drink in Zurich and probably the rest of Switzerland!

a) Cheapest and coolest place for a Drink in Zurich-Edis Weinstube

This bar might be the cheapest place in Switzerland to have a glass of wine at 4CHF. However Edi’s is so much more than that, it is an institution attracting a diverse crowd of older regulars mingling with students and tourists creating this melting pot of ages and cultures. It also functions as a porn art museum where new artists display their work. You will find some playful imagery across the bar so this might not be for everyone. There is also a wine shop, where you can grab a bottle of wine for 9.90 CHF (takeaway available until 10 PM on Fridays and Saturdays). 

b) Ass-bar

On your travels, you often come across a concept, so simple and brilliant and you wonder, how the hell does this not exist everywhere in the world- Let me get you into a little secret that is the Ass-Bar ( (the name is a play on words and in Swiss-German means “edible”), a bakery with a difference. The concept of the Äss-Bar is simple. It is like any bakery but here you will find here day-old and discounted pastries, sandwiches, pastries and beverages that have been collected from bakeries and food shops across Zurich. Everything is sold at 50% discount of the original price so in terms of value, this is the best value deal in town. Not only is this an affordable source of food for locals and tourists, it is the owner’s way to contribute to the community while reducing food waste. If you see one in Zurich or anywhere in Switzerland, step inside and do your part.

c) Bar Basso

A slice of Italy on the Schanzengraben with their beautiful outdoor terrace, Bar Basso is a relaxed restaurant bar where you can have a nice glass of wine. They serve some of the best pizza in town and it’s also worth trying their shared plates Tavolata from the menu. 

d) Dine at Haus Hiltl, the worlds oldest vegetarian restaurant dating back to 1898!

With over 100 dishes to choose from, pesto pasta, crispy greens, spicy daal to tofu curries, to Thai green curry – every imaginable vegetarian dish is on the menu and can be found at the buffet counter of what many may argue to be the greatest vegetarian restaurant in the world, Haus Hiltl. The mind boggling choice of dishes, salads and desserts on top make this a veritable feast. The food is weighed here by weight so in true Swiss style, food waste is kept to a minimum, a lesson that many buffet restaurants across the world could take a leaf from. Prices are not cheap but average by local standards but the quality of the food, ambience make this unmissable. Plus, did I mention that this is the oldest vegetarian restaurant in the world, dating back to 1898. There are several locations in Zurich. We chose the restaurant on Dachterrasse, which benefits from a beautiful outdoor terrace, which is the perfect place to be on a sunny day. Also, they have a range of refreshing homemade fruit juices and lemonades (I tried the passionfruit -lemonade) that complements the food nicely.

Day Trips : Exploring beyond Zurich

5. Visit Rapperswill

Best day trip from Zurich

Looking for ideas for a day trip from Zurich? Alpine Garden hotel manager, Sue, a native from the beautiful Rapperswill recommends you visit her home town on the southern tip of Lake Zurich.

A medieval town with mediterranean vibes and a pretty castle towering on a hill that offers panoramic views of the Glarus Alps all the way to the Zurich Oberland, Rapperswill is a dreamy town. Packed with picture postcard alleyways, lots of boutique shopping options, with a great variety of places to eat and drink on their outdoor terraces if the weather is nice. The town is the known as the City of Roses thanks to the 16,000 roses that flower in the rose gardens of the Capuchin monastery bordering the lake and on the “Schanz”.

One of the coolest features of the town is the half-mile-long, 8.2-foot-wide wooden bridge that connects Rapperswill across the narrowest point of the lake to the neighbouring town of Hurden. If you are taking the train from Zurich, I would suggest changing at Rapperswill onto the train to Hurden, so you can walk back along the bridge, following in the footsteps of ancient pilgrims that would walk the very same route on their way to Santiago del Compostela. 

Good to know: The trip to Rapperswill is free with the Swiss Travel Pass and Zurich Card users will need to buy a 4-zone extra ticket that allows you to travel within the entire Zurich transport network.

Tip: For good coffee and cakes, I highly recommend Gioia de Vita (Klugstrasse 10). The Hotel & Restaurant Jakob also comes recommended by native Sue for a drink or bite to eat at their jazzy brasserie.

6. Visit Chur

Another excellent day trip from Zurich is Chur, the oldest city in Switzerland, for its unique blend of historical charm and breathtaking natural beauty. As the gateway to the Alps, Chur serves as a bridge between Germany and Italy, and the starting point of the renowned Bernina Express. The city is adorned with lush vineyards, stunning heritage buildings, and is surrounded by picturesque mountains. Here, life moves at a tranquil pace, encapsulated by the local word ‘Patgific,’ which means calm and relaxed. Chur also has a fascinating, albeit dark, history. It was home to the famous artist HR Giger, known for creating the iconic Alien, and housed Switzerland’s most notorious prison, now transformed into the modern and stylish Bogentrakt Hostel. This hostel, run by Marco, is a sustainable haven perfect for remote workers. Additionally, Chur offers fantastic local cuisine and vibrant bars, catering to a wide range of interests. Whether you’re an avid hiker, a fan of Giger, a train enthusiast, or simply seeking a taste of the ‘patgific’ life, Chur has something to offer every traveler. Piqued your curiosity? Here is my guide to the best things to do in Chur

7. Further day trips from Zurich

Other excellent day trips from Zurich include Basel and Lucerne. They also are great cities to visit in their own right so do checkout my guide to Basel on a budget and Lucerne on a budget.

8. Top tip: Invest in the Zurich Card to save money on public transport plus free access to museums

Zürich has one of the best public transport systems in the world that includes  trams, buses, trains, and boats. Everything runs like a clockwork, making it easy to hop anywhere within the city or make a day trip to places like Uetliburg. If you are looking to save money, I highly recommend investing in the Zürich Card.

The Zürich Card offers tourists and locals convenient access to many of Zürich’s attractions. It provides unlimited travel by tram, bus, train, boat, and cableway within the city and surrounding regions. This includes free travel between Zürich  Airport and the city centre, making it a convenient option for those arriving by plane. It also includes the trip up the Uetliberg and mini lake cruises across Lake Zürich. Additionally, cardholders receive free or discounted admission to museums (such as the Kunsthaus Zürich and the Swiss National Museum) access to a variety of leisure activities, and discounts at selected restaurants and shops. The card is available for either 24 or 72 hours, making it a flexible option for exploring Zürich with ease. You can find more details at Zürich Card.

If you are a train geek and planning a big trip to Switzerland, you may want to checkout my guide to Switzerland on a budget.

Swimming in the Limit River in the summer is THE best thing to do in Zurich for free

9. FAQ: Zürich Budget Travel

Q: Is Zürich expensive? 

A: While Switzerland is known for high costs, our guide proves budget travel is possible with smart planning. Stay at the Capsule Hotel Alpine Garden ( don’t forget to use this discount code CAPSULE15 to get  15% off your stay at the Capsule Hotel Alpine Garden and at any of their other locations , which currently include Lucerne and Basel, ) take advantage of the free opening hours of museums, hike up Uetliburg, go tubing down the river in the summer- best things in Zurich can be enjoyed without breaking the bank.

Q: How can I save money on food in Zurich? 

A: Try places like Äss-Bar, Haus Hiltl, and take advantage of buffet-style restaurants.

Q: What’s the best way to get around? 

A: The Zürich Card offers unlimited public transport and additional discounts and is the best thing you can invest in to save money when visiting Zurich.

Disclaimer: Prices and availability may vary. Always check current information before traveling.

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Things to do in Chur- Where to go, eat and drink + sleep https://budgettraveller.org/best-things-to-do-in-chur/ https://budgettraveller.org/best-things-to-do-in-chur/#respond Tue, 05 Sep 2023 14:16:51 +0000 https://budgettraveller.org/?p=16323 After a hectic few weeks of backpacking and interrailing in June, I arrived in Chur, the oldest city in Switzerland and the gateway to the Alps. Seen as the bridge between Germany and Italy, plus as the starting point of the famous Bernina Express, Chur is dotted with leafy vineyards beautiful heritage buildings and surrounded by mountains. You will find the pace of life here sedate and relaxed. They even have a local word here to describe it- ‘Patgific’. After just spending a day here, I felt relaxed and feeling patgific here. However, sheltered by the mountains , in splendid isolation, Chur has also apparently a dark edge to it. It was the home to the famous artist, HR Giger, the creator of Alien. Chur was home to the most notorious prison in Switzerland. After being closed to locals for 200 years, the jail has been reborn as Bogentrakt Hostel, a modern, stylish and sustainable hostel run by a good friend of mine, Marco who has put his heart and soul into the place. The darkness has gone and in its place a hostel has been born, a great place to temporarily call home. Perfect for remote workers. Plus there is some great places to eat local cuisine and some cool local bars.  So, whether you are a keen hiker, interested in Giger, a train geek or looking for a taste of the patgific life and chill at the Bogentrakt Hostel or party with the Polenta 7000 crew,  Chur has something for every traveller. This blog post will give you a taste of the best things to do in Chur plus practical good stuff like where to eat in Chur, best day trips from Chur and also where to stay in Chur on a budget.

 

Introduction to Chur 

Chur is a small, medieval mountain town in the Swiss Canton of the Grisons, towards the eastern part of Switzerland. Reputed to be the oldest town in the country, this perfectly preserved slice of Swiss history takes visitors back to a slow paced, peaceful, more placid way of life. In the Old Town, with its heritage buildings and leafy green vineyards creeping slowly up the surrounding hills, one could almost believe that time has stood still. Viewed from the heights of Fürhörnli, the highest point of the town, Chur appears spread out across the deeply chiseled Grisonian Rhine Valley. Known for its ancient history, dating to prehistoric times, Chur contains several heritage buildings of national importance. Strategically placed on the Rhatetian Railway route, Chur is the ideal place to hop off for a few days of rest and contemplation of the peace and beauty of the mountain scenery. 

Best things to do in Chur 

1.Exploring the Old Town

Switzerland’s oldest town can be found in the Old Town of Chur. With the additional distinction of having a history of settlement reaching back as far as five millennia, visiting Chur is like stepping into a time warp and breathing in the reality of a long forgotten past. With the majestic backdrop of formidable snow capped peaks and the dark steepled city spires of Chur reaching up to the crisp Alpine air, this lofty city seems to be locked in its medieval past. Adding to its charm is the pedestrian free Old Town, enabling visitors to freely explore its winding streets and alleys, discovering town squares, old churches, painted murals, cafés, shops and museums. 

 

2. Explore the town by playing Urban Golf

A fun way to explore all of Chur’s main sights is by playing a game of Urban Golf. Instead of playing on a traditional golf course, Urban Golf can be played in any form of living environment, from narrow winding cobbled streets of Chur to disused  industrial warehouses and school playgrounds. In Chur, you can hire for a small price, a set of golf clubs and a special softball from the tourist information office along with a map of the 9 holes to master which are spread across alleys and plazas in Chur’s picturesque old town. It is really fun way to discover and interact with a place , drawing you into parts of town you may have missed. It always elicits wonder and amusement from locals and tourists alike so there is never a dull moment. It is a lot of fun and something that people of all ages can enjoy.

Essentials:  To play the full 9 holes across Chur with friends or family costs 15 CHF. It takes around 2.5 – 3 hours to complete all the 9 holes. A deposit fee of CHF 10.00 per person is required , in cash when you pick up the equipment at the ‘Tourist Information’ ( Bahnhofstrasse 32, 7001 Chur ) . The equipment includes 1 golf club, 1 soft ball, 1 “bäseli” and 1 lanyard. The deposit will be returned when the equipment is returned. 

3. Chur Cathedral

Chur Cathedral or Saint Mary of the Assumption Cathedral is a Catholic Church borne of the perfect marriage of Romanesque and Gothic Architecture. Perched high up on a hillside, surrounded by lush vineyards, the Episcopal Court contains both the 800 year old Cathedral and its neighbouring Bishop’s Palace. Dedicated to the Assumption of Virgin Mary the stunning golden Gothic altar contrasts with the exterior – a nod to Eastern influences shaping its construction due to its proximity to major ancient trade routes. Chur Cathedral is three naved and it’s central nave is fashioned from rock from Scalära. The portal of the main entryway is bolstered by six columns that are held aloft by six coloured archways. Notable interior features of the church include the Gothic altar designed by Jacob Russ, the carved choir and the spectacular stained glass arched window. 

3. St. Martin’s Church

The Gothic spire of St Martin’s Church leaves an indelible impression on the skyline of Old Town Chur due to its character and the longevity of its existence in Chur. Built in the eighth century in tribute to St Martin, Bishop of Tours, the once Romanesque Church was burnt down in 1464 and rebuilt in the Gothic design. An ethereal feature of the Church is the more recent addition of three stained glass windows by Augusto Giacometti, depicting scenes from the Christmas story. The white facade of the clock tower, with pointed black spire is a convenient landmark in the centre of town and the view from the church tower of Old Town and the surrounds shouldn’t be missed. 

4. Rhaetian Museum

The Rhaetian Museum is devoted to the history and culture of the surrounding area, i.e. the Graubinden Canton. It is a treasure chest of ethnographic, archeological and sociological finds and information. This permanent exhibition is spread over four floors of the Baroque museum building, originally built in 1675, which is a piece of history in itself. Young children can benefit from a visit to the museum too. A fun way to learn about each of the exhibits from a child’s perspective is to pick up a special key from the ticketing office. Each room in the museum contains a locked box, which when opened with the key reveals information about the history of individual exhibits. Not only is this a good way to impart knowledge from a different angle, it also makes each child feel extremely special. 

There is a small museum shop that proudly displays carefully curated gifts and souvenirs. The museum is mostly wheelchair accessible. 

Prices for tickets start at 6 CHF for adults, 4 CHF for pensioners and students while children under 16 can visit for free.

However, if you are staying overnight in Chur, you qualify for the Guest card Chur which gives you free access to the Raetian Museum, Graubünden Museum of Natural History and Graubünden Art Museum.

5. Bündner Kunstmuseum (Graubünden Art Museum)

Only a two minute walk from Chur Railway Station, the Graubünden Art Museum is the home of art and art history in Graunünden, spanning over three hundred years. The beautiful heritage building, Villa Planta, is graced by a recent extension – designed by Barozzi Veiga and the combined unit, spread over 1200 square metres is home to 8000 pieces of art. The museum with has strong focus on contemporary art featuring artists that have a strong connection to Graubünden like Angelika Kauffmann, the artist family Giacometti, Ernst Ludwig Kirchner and the artist group ‘Rot-Blau.’

Entry fee for adults is 15 CHF for adults while kids under 16 go free.

However, if you are staying overnight in Chur, you qualify for the Guest card Chur which gives you free access to the Raetian Museum, Graubünden Museum of Natural History and Graubünden Art Museum.

 

6. Explore the Street Art

Chur is home to the most renowned street artists in the world, BANE. You can find his murals, astonishing in terms of scale and detail, spread across the city. 

Unmissable works include Mühleturm , the ”creative landmark” of Chur and the largest mural painting in Switzerland and “I have a dream” ( 2015) which he painted with the street artist Pest.

Brambrüesch

7. Hike from Brambrüesch to Pradaschier 

Directly above Chur and easily reached by cable car, Brambrüesch is a hikers paradise in summer with glorious meadows filled with diverse Alpine Flora and incredible panoramic views of the mountains that encircle Arosa, the Schanfigg and the Lenzerheide. The trail starts off with a quite pleasant and scenic walk through the forest to the Malixer Alp. If you haven’t haven’t had lunch you have the option of dining in the Bergbaiz which serves hearty, fine local Alpine cuisine for affordable prices. After a relatively gentle hike, it gets more scenic and interesting as you ascend higher to the Galti-Alp. This is the highest point of the hike and the surrounding views are spectacular here. For someone who is a hiking novice and a bit afraid of heights, I really enjoyed the hike despite some initial fears. The range of flora and fauna, the views -truly is a unique experience. It is a gradual decent into Pradaschier where the cosy Pradaschier mountain restaurant with its glorious sun terrace offers visitors a chance to unwind with a drink or some enjoy some hearty Graubünden fare like Capuns.

The best part of the hike is the descent to Churwalden via a spectacular toboggan ride- three kilometers long and with 31 bends, some of them hairpin curves, this toboggan ride is listed in the Guinness Book of Records as the longest track-guided railway in Europe. The toboggan ride down is 18 CHF for adults, 13 CHF for kids from ages 13-17 and 9 CHF for kids under 13.

Note: If you have the Guest Card Chur, you get 50% off the ascent and decent on the  Chur-Brambrüesch cableways.

Da Mamma

Where to eat in Chur 

I will be publishing next a more comprehensive guide on where to eat and drink but here a few tips. If you are looking for traditional homemade Italian cuisine at an affordable price then Da Mamma’s is the place to come. Fixed price 2 course vegetarian lunch menu is just 16.30 CHF is one of the best value lunch deals in town. If you love South Indian/ Tamil cuisine, then you should also pop into Yaal for their lunchtime buffet which start at just 19.90 CHF. Next door neighbour to the Bogentrakt Hostel, Kostbar, where you have a good mix of local food like the Churer Fleischtörtli or more comfort food like burgers and curries. Prices start from 14 CHF. If you are on a tight budget, the local Coop supermarket offers a range of salads, sandwiches and snacks at affordable prices. For example, a salad nicoise costs 8.50 CHF. Last but not least, try Wok and Momo, a tibetan run diner with a range of dishes , from their excellent value stir fry wok noodles ( from 7 CHF) to momos ( 18.50 CHF).

Special mention must go to Polenta 7000, a summer pop up festival run by local creatives and kindred spirits where visitors can enjoy delicious food ( Chickpea curry and rice for just 8 CHF) concerts, DJ sets, table tennis, open air cinema, childrens circus. The season wraps up on 26th September 2023 but keep your eye out on the Polenta 7000 website for next summers pop up.

Best Day Trips from Chur 

Chur to Tirano with the Bernina Express

The Bernina Express is a must if you are visiting Chur.  The train traverses one of the world’s most spectacular and scenic routes, providing passengers with a mesmerising, once in a lifetime travel experience. Starting in the Chur, the Bernina Express glides up the Swiss Engadin Alps to culminate its journey at the Italian city of Tirano. The train spans an astonishing 196 bridges, 55 tunnels, winds up high altitude mountain passes, passes glaciers, alpine lakes, twists around spiral viaducts, skirting glaciers and hopping over country borders. Highlights of the journey include the soaring Bernina Pass at an elevation of 2253 metres, the crossing of the famous Landwasser Viaduct an architectural marvel, with some of the most jaw dropping scenery in the stretch between Ospizio Bernina and Alp Grum.

The 1000 mm gauge is fully electrified and uses 7% gradients to negotiate sharp differences in heights. The panorama cars offer an immersive travelling experience for passengers and enable them to drink in the sights and take photos and videos to their heart’s content. Audio guides in a variety of languages are also available describing the surroundings. 

The Bernina Express is operated by the Rhaetian Railway Company. The Albula and Bernina lines on the Bernina Express were declared World Heritage Sites in 2008. The Albula line  runs from Chur to the Pontresina station in the Bernina Valley. The Bernina Line from Pontresina ascends the valley to the heights of the Bernina Pass. South of the Alps, the train traverses glaciers, lakes and mountains and then proceeds eventually towards the Swiss Italian border, to end at Tirano.

The Bernina railway is the highest railway line in the Alps, and somehow manages year-round travel, despite thick snow drifts in deep midwinter.

Where to stay in Chur on a budget

Bogentrakt Hostel 

One of my main hostel finds of the year was this beautiful new design hostel in the picturesque town of Chur, the oldest  inhabited town in Switzerland. It is one of those rare hostels which is really embedded in the heart of the community. By the end of the trip, I made so many friends across the city. Chur is that kind of place where locals are super friendly.

Bogentrakt Hostel, set in the heart of Chur against the scenic backdrop of vineyards, has a dark history and used to be the “toughest prison in Switzerland. Owner Marco Leibundgut transformed it into a vibrant hostel, giving the historic building a new lease of life.. The hostel’s name, “Bogentrakt,”is  a German word that translates to “curved wing” or “arched wing” and pays homage to the prison’s distinct curved structure.

Old, former prison cells have been tastefully converted into modern rooms. Visitors can learn about the colourful history of the prison and former inmates via QR codes and pictures which are visible throughout the hostel. 

The facilities are brilliant and perfect for nomads- dedicated coworking space at no extra charge, a really nice guest kitchen which guests can use to cook from ( handy given how expensive eating out is in Switzerland) plus a common room with a library, board games and also a TV for watching movies. For a small fee, the hostel also helps with your laundry which is very handy. The hostel reception has a drinks kiosk with local drinks and a beer on tap if you are feeling thirsty. There is also a small shop with local products, food essentials, everyday body products in case you run out during your stay. Hostel organises dinners and also has plans for hostel happy hour to bring guests together in the lobby. The hostel also has a really cool bar and restaurant called Kostbar which is nice to have a beer and relax, especially in the summer months when the terrace is open. The Sennhof, the original complex where the hostel is located is also home to local designers, a beautiful flower shop and also an art gallery so you really feel a sense of community and being part of the everyday life of the town.

Freiband Sand

There is a range of beautiful hikes and nature within a short distance of the hostel so that is another big plus for staying here. Room rates start from 32 CHF per bed per night, Doubles from 99 CHF per room, per night. There is a special prices of 399 CHF for a weeks stay, booking directly via the hostel website.

There is a 10% discount for BudgetTraveller readers who book directly with Bogentrakt Hostel: Please quote BUDGETTRAVELLER when booking. Plus anyone who books with my code will also receive a free mystery local drink on arrival.

Free Guest Card Chur

It is worth again reminding that anyone staying overnight at Bogentrakt or any other tourist accommodation in Chur will be eligible for free the Guest Card Chur which gives you access to a wonderful range of benefits which include:-

  1. Free use of public transport in the TransReno fare network, Zone 1 (2nd Class). Not valid for bikes and dogs. Valid after check-in. Bernina Express and Glacier Express is not included.

      2. One free entry to the Obere Au indoor and outdoor swimming pools or the outdoor swimming pool Sand

      3. Free entry to the local museums: Raetian Museum, Graubünden Museum of Natural History, Graubünden Art Museum

      4.Chur-Brambrüesch cableways: Visitors get a 50% discount on the ascent and descent 25% discount on bike day tickets              (Alpenbikepark Chur and bike day ticket Arosa Lenzerheide Chur). To get your ticket please show your guest card at the               cableways ticket office. The tickets of the guest cards are valid up to and including 5 pm. The evening rides and the rides             on 1 August are not included.

Best things to do in Chur: FAQ

How can I travel to Chur?

Chur is well-connected by train, with frequent services from major Swiss cities like Zurich, Basel, and Geneva. The train journey from Zurich to Chur takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes. You can also drive to Chur via the A13 motorway or fly into Zurich Airport and take a train from there.

What are the must-see attractions in Chur?

Chur boasts numerous attractions, including its charming old town, the historic cathedral, the town hall (Rathaus), and stunning views of the Swiss Alps. Additionally, scenic train journeys like the Bernina Express and Glacier Express originate from Chur.

When is the ideal time to visit Chur?

The best time to visit Chur is during the summer months (June to August), when the weather is warm and ideal for exploring. Winter also offers a magical experience with snow-covered landscapes and festive activities.

What local dishes should I try?

Chur is famous for Swiss cuisine, including dishes like fondue, raclette, and rösti. Don’t miss out on trying the local cheese and chocolate.

What currency is used in Chur and where can I exchange money?

The currency used in Chur is the Swiss Franc (CHF). You can exchange money at banks, currency exchange offices, or ATMs throughout the city.

Is there a tourist information center in Chur?

Yes, Chur has a tourist information center at Bahnhofstrasse 32, next to the main entrance of the Manor. They offer maps, brochures, and useful tips for your visit.

How can I get around Chur?

Chur is a walkable city with many attractions within walking distance. Public transportation, including buses and trains, is also available for exploring the surrounding areas.

I hope this helps! If there’s anything specific you’d like more details on, just let me know.

 

Disclaimer

I was invited to Chur as a guest of Bogentrakt Hostel and Chur Tourismus. However, all the opinions, good and bad are  entirely mine.

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Discovering Basel without guidebook, just a deck of cards https://budgettraveller.org/locals-know-it-best-basel/ https://budgettraveller.org/locals-know-it-best-basel/#respond Thu, 16 Feb 2023 14:06:55 +0000 https://budgettraveller.org/?p=15770 One of my takeaways from the pandemic was that you don’t have to go far or try too hard to find adventure, even in your own city. Our long ‘mental health’ walks allowed us to discover parts of Berlin we normally would have never have visited. We never used our smartphones or followed a set path and destination on these walks. This element of unpredictability definitely turned the simplest trips into an adventure. As we quickly transitioned from the pandemic back to the almost normal life, I wanted to retain that sense of misadventure in my future travel adventures. The exhaustive nature of researching a destination before travelling to a destination and going through countless reviews can sometimes suck all the magic and joy away from travel. I tried to remember travels from my pre social media days where I would be walking around a city, trying to read a map, asking locals for directions. Sometimes I would dip into my guidebook for tips and recommendations. Yes. Those trips involved getting lost. A lot. Somehow in the process of getting lost, we would find ourselves in some random beautiful bar or diner.

 

 

Sometimes, getting lost would not be fun. Sometimes the guidebook tips would not be overrun with other backpackers or closed down. However, those are the high and lows of travel. Just like with most experiences in life. When I look back at all these trips, I never remember the pain of all those bad experiences. They are now scars I proudly wear. I do remember the faces of people I met. Some of whom I am still in contact with. Some of whom I have never met or likely to meet again.

I started thinking of how I could recreate the magic of trips of old, where I would meet locals, get lost, make mistakes. How about a holiday which involved no guidebook and also no social media? A trip where you depending entirely on tips from locals. The biggest challenge for me personally is that I find it hard to muster the courage to speak to locals, an issue I think many of us face. To make it easier, I came up with the idea of a deck of cards. Each card would have a question to some of the most important questions on holiday like ‘Where is a good place for coffee?” or ‘A bar popular with locals’ or ‘ Best place for ice-cream’ Cards would be divided into 6 sections: Morning, Lunch, Afternoon, Evening, Dinner and Night. Questions would be tailored towards the time of the day. By introducing an element of gamification, I hoped that it would help break the ice easier with locals. Now I had the idea, the challenge was to design and create the cards plus to find a destination where I could test the idea.

 

I’ve always secretly fantasized being a graphic designer and thanks to Canva, they’s made that almost a reality. It is so easy to create a professional looking poster or cover for ebook.

 

 
 
 
 
 
View this post on Instagram
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

A post shared by Kash Bhattacharya (@budgettraveller)

I decided to dig deep into Canva and after playing around with a few ideas for templates for the card game, I came up with something that looked fun and professional. The initial feedback was fantastic from friends and after printing a dummy set, I realised I could, almost anyone with a sense of design and imagination, could come with their own set of playing cards.

Kleinbasel, Basel

The last important part of the challenge was picking a city. Initially I thought it could be quite fun to do the challenge in my home town Berlin. However, having lived here for almost 6 years, I already knew the city well. I would have to find a city which I had absolutely no clue about. It was around then, this was around April 2021, I had a chance conversation with the head of PR from Basel Tourismus, Isidora Rudolph. I had never been to Basel and also hardly explored Switzerland. The city was a complete unknown quantity to me other than the fact that it was a city by the Rhine. It was also a city where France, Germany and Switzerland met. A meeting point of many cultures and influences, Basel sounded like the ideal city to meet locals and launch the idea.

How did it go?

We visited Basel at the peak of summer on a late weekend in July. We arrived late afternoon and checked into the very stylish Silo Hostel. Basel is one of the more expensive cities of Europe so we wanted to find a balance between comfort, price and quality and this hostel represented that. We could have stayed at a canalside hotel which was close in price but for me one of the best reasons to stay in a hostel is that you tend to get better tips from staff there which was crucial for the success of our challenge.

Day 1

Jasmine and Buoy- Bug a Thai, Klara

Klara

Tip: Discovered randomly while walking through Kleinbasel

On the first evening we wondered through Kleinbasel. Aimlessly wondering through a new town with no destination in mind is one of life’s greatest pleasures. It also gives you a chance to get your bearings, checkout the neighbourhood. We popped  briefly into Agarwal , a huge Indian Grocery food store where I picked up some nice Indian snacks- you can take the Indian out of India but not the Indian out of.… Around the corner of Agarwal, we discovered Klara, a food court that serves culinary treats from Japan, Argentina, Thailand and Africa. It looked busy, nice ambience so we gave the place a go. We ordered a delicious Pad Thai from Bug a Thai, one of the food vendors in the court. While ordering the good we got speaking to the lady who was serving us, Jasmine. We mentioned we were from Berlin and visiting Basel for the first time. I then explained to her the nature of our trip and our challenge to discover Basel with the help of our card game. She was curious to see the cards, so we showed them to her. I then asked her to draw a card from the evening section. The card she drew?

’My favourite place for sunset.’ Her eyes kind of lit up when she drew the card. ‘ Sunsets are my favourite thing!’ She recommended we go to the Dreirosenbrucke for sunset. Since it was already quite late and past sunset, we saved that tip for later.

Day 2

Kunstmuseum Basel

The Kunstmuseum Basel

Card: My favourite museum in Basel

Tip from Christian, manager of Silo Hostel.

Our first tip of the day was from Christian the hostel manager. He recommended us to visit the Kunstmuseum Basel which houses the second largest public art collection in Switzerland, after the Kunsthaus Zürich and is listed as a heritage site of national significance.Its lineage extends back to the Amerbach Cabinet, which included a collection of works by Hans Holbein purchased by the city of Basel and the University of Basel in 1661, which made it the first municipally owned and therefore open to the public museum in the world. Its collection is distinguished by an impressively wide historic span, from the early 15th century up to the immediate present. Its various areas of emphasis give it international standing as one of the most significant museums of its kind. These encompass: paintings and drawings by artists active in the Upper Rhine region between 1400 and 1600, and on the art of the 19th to 21st centuries.

Basel Munster

Basel Munster

Tip: Random stumble!

From Kunstmuseum you can see the dreamy spires of Basel Munster so we decided to go for a wonder to explore. Together with the Mittlere Brücke, the Basler Münster (Cathedral) is probably the most famous landmark in Basel. With its red sandstone walls, colourful roof tiles and twin towers, no other building adorns the cityscape of Basel like the Cathedral. The former episcopal church, was built between the years 1019 and 1500 in the Romantic and Gothic styles. The crypt, the chancel, the tomb of Erasmus of Rotterdam, the Gallus gate and the two cloisters are witness to a fascinating tale of construction over a period of several centuries. The piazza in which the Cathedral stands is today a popular meeting place and is often used for concerts and events.

Pfalz, Basel

The Pfalz

At the back of the Munster, we discover the Pfalz , a terrace that offering wonderful views over the Rhine and one of the most popular viewpoints in the city. From the terrace we could see the ‘Reaction Ferries’ crossing the Rhine river and since we needed to hop to Kleinbasel, we decided to try them out.

Hop on the ferry

We hopped on 1 of 4 passenger ferries that cross the Rhine from one bank to the other, using nothing but a steel cable and the current of the water.  Popular with locals and tourists like, it is a quick and convenient way of crossing the river and offers a fantastic perspective of the city and definitely worth checking out.

 

Lunch: Restaurant Weinbar Sonne

Tip from Tanya

We stopped by at the newsagent  on Rheingasse and got talking to Tanya who manages the place. For lunch she recommended we try Restaurant Weinbar Sonne just across from her for their delicious pizzas. We tried their salami pizza with a pint of beer- really tasty and also well priced for Basel.

 

Gelateria Di Berna

Card: My favourite ice-cream place

Tip from Sacha Kohler, Kunstmuseum Basel

Inspired by their camping holidays in Italy along the coast between Livorno and Follonica, three brothers-Michael, David and Hansmartin started Gelateria Di Berna in Bern where their Italian style gelato ice-cream using organic local products and eccentric flavours ( think ginger/fruit mixes and the like) are all the rage. After Zurich, they just opened a new outpost in Basel when we travelled there in August 2021. We never would have known about Gelataria Di Berna unless we got chatting to Sacha Kohler at the Kunstmuseum Basel who drew the ‘My favourite Ice cream’ card. Turns out Sacha is quite a gelato afficionado. Gelateria Di Berna was really lovely ice-cream and perfect for the weather. ( 30c at the end of July )

He later emailed me to say that he also wanted recommend 1 more favourite places which we sadly did not have time for – Eisuru Glace in the local Markthalle ( Especially their black sesame flavour )

Buvette DreiRosen

Buvette DreiRosen

After the ice-cream at Gelateria Di Berna, we got a little lost about what to do next. It was a really hot afternoon. The locals were all gathered by the banks of Kleinbasel, going for a dip in the river to cool down. Looked like a lot of fun but we didn’t have our swimsuits with us. I contemplated asking a local for some help but then noticed all of them queuing  at one of these wee makeshift container units that had seen all along the riverbank here. We decided to queue at one of these container units by the Dreirosenbrucke- Buvette DreiRosen. These buvettes – part bar/ part restaurant , I later discovered are a classic feature of summer in Basel. There are also the cheapest place for a beer in Basel and it is not cheap here so if you are looking for a nice cold cheap beer with a view, come here.

Sabrina sipping on Martin’s signature cocktail: ‘Adam.’, Schall und Rauch

Schall and Rauch.

After our beer, we continued our walk down Kleinbasel back to the old town. We gravitated back to Rheingasse to a bar we had spotted next to Restaurant Weinbar Sonne called Schall and Rauch. I think it was the happy smiling face of owner, Martin waving at a friend while we walked by earlier that had initially caught my attention. I walked past the bar and popped our head and said hello and he then asked us where we were from. The bar was mostly empty. Business was slow with locals all gathered by the river. So he had time to entertain us and within a few minutes , we had perched ourselves at the bar, drinking one of his signature cocktails called ‘Adam.’ The base is a ginger liqueur with rum, grapefruit juice, cassis and a cherry on top- it tasted amazing.  Martin was great company and host.

Flo, Za Zaa

Dinner- Za Zaa

We headed to Lebanese restuarant, Za Zaa on recommendation from a few locals and this was probably our best meal of the trip.

The place was packed. The service was wonderful, food beautifully presented and the ambience was lovely. On recommendation of the lovely Flo, we ordered their Mezze platter to share which had cold and hot plates of food that included their smoky delicious baba ganoush, beetroot hummus, halloumi fries and falafel balls, basmati rice and chicken kebabs. I can’t remember everything I ate but it was all delicious with a special nod to the kebabs-incredible. We washed this down with their caipirinha cocktails which were delicious. This was hands down one of the best Middle Eastern restaurants I’ve dined in Europe.

Day 3

Eiscafe Acero, Basel

Eiscafe Acero

Card: I get my caffeine fix here

Tip from Flo, Za Zaa

Another popular establishment on Rheingasse next door to  Restaurant Weinbar Sonne and Schall und Rauch is Eiscafe Acero, a cafe and extremely popular icecream parlour with lots of unusual, dairy free and vegan options. ( Long queues everyday for their ice cream-always a good sign) However, we had come for their coffee and their beautiful backyard garden. This was a tip from Flo from Za Zaa.

‘It is the perfect place to start your day.’ he told me dreamily and he wasn’t wrong. On a sunday morning, it was blissfully quiet and we had the whole garden to ourselves at 10am. Great coffee and lovely service too. Next time in Basel, we will try their ice-cream.

Niki de Saint Phalle, Solitude Park Basel

Solitude Park

On our way to catch the Wild Maa ferry across the river to the Paper Mill ( tip from Christian, manager at the hostel) , we strolled through the beautiful Solitude Park next to the Rhine and the Museum Tinguely ( Later discover that Niki Saint de Phalle and Tinguely were partners in life and art, the ‘Bonnie and Clyde of the Art World’ ) we discovered one of Niki de Saint Phalle’s colorful painted polyester sculptures. I’m a huge fan of her buxom, bold and beautiful sculptures and followed her work ever since I saw an exhibition of hers in Nice. So this was a really cool discovery.

Postcard pretty St Alban in Grossbasel

Basel Paper Mill + Wilde Maa ferry

Card: Surprise Us

Tip from Christian, Silo Basel Hostel

1 of 4 ferries to cross the Rhine, we hopped onto the Wilde Maa ferry from Kleinbasel to St Alban in Grossbasel. It was perfect on Monday morning -we were the only people on the crossing.

The ferry drops you off in the scenic area of St Alban, an upscale residential district of Basel dotted with villas and Gothic and baroque merchants’ houses. Our main reason for coming here was to see the Basel Paper Mill museum but it is sadly closed on Monday morning. This is where not using a mobile phone and checking beforehand can hurt on a trip.

Still, we enjoyed wondering around the narrow winding streets and seeing the old timber-framed buildings- really feels like stepping back into a different era. We witnessed the old gateway to the city-the St. Alban-Tor, known locally as the “Dalbedoor” which is the gateway to the St. Alban quarter of the city.

Marktplatz

Card: My favourite market in Basel

Tip from Mike, Silo Hostel

Our next stop was the bustling Marktplatz, recommended by Mike one of the cooks at the Silo Hostel Basel. The marktplatz is dominated by its vibrant rouge red 16th century town hall. During the week, there’s a busy weekly market where locals come to buy fresh vegetables, fruit and flowers. After a quick cup of coffee at the marktplatz we ventured up Gerbergasse to checkout the shops.

Lackerli Huus AG

We stumbled upon Lackerli Huus by chance. One of their friendly staff members gave us a chance to sample one of their famous Basler Leckerli biscuits, a ginger biscuit popular in the region that reminded us a lot of Lebkuchen gingerbread cookies that are a popular Xmas treat in Germany. Sabrina is a sucker for lebkuchen so we had to pop in to sample more of their delicious biscuit specialities. Tasty stuff. We ended up buying a box of their famous Lackerli biscuits to take back home.

Tapas del Mar, Spalenburg

Tapas del Mar Spalenburg

Stuffing ourselves with all that delicious Leckerli had killed our appetite a bit so we wanted a light bite to eat so the moment when we saw the sign of Tapas del Mar, we decided to give it a try. ( Nice gaggle of locals were drinking wine on their outdoor terrace so that  gave us some confidence. ) Everything we ordered here was tasty- classic Pulpo alla Gallega, Salmorejo- cold tomato soup from Andalucia ( perfect for a hot day), Patatas Bravas and Boquerones en Vinagre– fresh anchovies, marinated in vinegar. Really good quality food, good service. Prices here are not cheap but in Basel, we came to expect that.

Johann Wanner Christmas Store

I lived in Edinburgh for many years and one of the novelties you can find in the city is not one but three year round Christmas shops. However in terms of scale and variety, this shop ( just around the corner from Tapas del Mar ) was astounding. I don’t think I’ve ever been to Xmas shop like this. If you are the person who lives and dreams of Xmas, then you will love this place.

Wickelfisching in Basel

Tubing down the Rhine with the iconic Wickelfisch

Card: Favourite thing to do in Basel

Tip from Basel, Tourist Information Point

In the summer, the most popular thing that locals do to relax, cool down in the heat is to go for a swim down the Rhine river. Everytime we walked down Kleinbasel , we saw people of all ages drifting down the river. Most people use their“Wickelfisch” , a swim bag where they can store their clothes and valuables securely, to float down on the gentle current through the city. Plenty of places on Kleinbasel to dry yourself. I was super impressed at the number of showers and toilet facilities along the river- this city really knows how to enjoy summer. Plus, don’t forget all the marvellous buvettes for enjoying an ice cold drink. Note: Sometimes the current can be pretty strong so it is advisable to check conditions before you go for a dip- Basel tourism website is a good place to check.

Sabrina and Martina

Klybeck /Kleinhuningen

Card: Surprise Us

Tip from Marina

Many locals we met including the lovely Marina we met at Flores recommended to visit the port area. On the list of places here, the popular Nordstern club was mentioned a few times but sadly we didn’t have time to visit this iconic club on the water.

After the hustle and bustle of Kleinbasel, there was a very calming and haunting feel about the whole port area. It was very quiet on the Monday evening we visited. The only thing breaking the silence were the odd comings and goings of boats passing through the canal and the odd seagull mooching on the boats moored by the dock. Maybe it is something about me and the sea or it could have been the surrounding age old industrial ambience that brought on an intense pang of nostalgia. I suddenly had an urge to hop on one of the boats and take off.

Sandoase bar facing onto the Dreiländereck

This desire for exploration and adventure maybe also because of the location, for here in the harbour, specifically you will find the Dreilandereck , an concordesque upright statue that marks the point where Switzerland, Germany and France meet. You can observe it from the Sandoase bar ( tip from Anne, Silo ) , toes in the sand with a beer in hand, at this classic summer beach bar. ( ..which transforms into a cosy winter village later in the year I’ve been told )

Grenzwert

Grenzwert

Card: A bar where locals go

Tip from Martin, School und Rauch

We finished off our trip with delicious cocktails at Grenzwert -excellent tip from Martin. The bar has a nice relaxed almost speakeasy style ambience. Precovid, the bar was hosting more live music events so keep an eye out on their Facebook page when you are in town.

Verdict

Overall, both me and Sabrina found it quite a liberating and interesting experience exploring Basel with the help of our card game. I was really impressed with the quality of the tips and the enthusiasm of locals when we approached them with the idea. We did have the odd local who wasn’t too keen but overall the experience was positive. I had a few lovely emails from the people we spoke to asking how we got on and also telling us how much they loved the idea of the card game.

Few negatives. We did get lost a lot. Old fashioned map bailed us out a few times and we had to ask locals for help with directions. Apps like Google Maps make you so self reliant and travel easy…without access to them felt at times quite stressful, especially in a new city. However on the other side, the aimless wondering of finding a place made us slow down a bit , get lost a bit and that’s how we stumbled upon spots like Tapas del Mar and also the Xmas shop for example. I think once we got used to the idea of not using the phone, we found it more easier but your brain gets so wired….Sometimes, during busier times of the day like lunchtime we found it hard to find locals to talk to, especially on weekends. We realised that sometimes, you just have to give into the flow and just follow your nose, gut feeling when you explore a new city. That’s when you have a real adventure or misadventure. We probably would have never visited the Paper Mill and St Alban area if we knew it was closed but then again we loved wondering through the area in the solitude of the early morning hours.

Would I do this again? Yes. I’d love to discover a new city and play the game. However, I think I would need to make some small amendments to the cards.

The toughest part of the challenge is getting out of your shell, having the guts to talk to a stranger.  It is not an art that comes easily to me. I think it is something a lot of people struggle with when on holiday or even at home. So if you are considering a lo-fi, non tech, no guidebook vacation and just depending on locals , here are some tips to get you started when it comes to talking to a local.

How to speak to a local

Rules of engagement with locals vary from country to country but here are a few basic tips to get you started

1. Master a few key local phrases

Few basic phrases can make such a difference when breaking the ice. Learning the local equivalent of “Hello’ ‘Thank You’ , ‘Good Morning” , ‘Do you speak English’ and ‘Where is a good place to drink beer’ is sometimes all you need to get by.

2. Be expressive

If you are struggling to find the right words or don’t know the local lingo expressive body language can make a big difference. A smile always helps to break the ice and endear yourself immediately to most people. Simple gestures like mimicking to take a drink might seem ridiculous or banal to you but can make a huge difference and get the conversation rolling.

3. Checkout local events

Sometimes, it can be tough in certain countries to casually chat to strangers. It helps to join an event like maybe a food tour or wine tasting or a cooking class or even a quiz night at the local to get the chance to meet a local. People will be more relaxed and open and this is where you’re likely to have a more meaningful interaction.

4. Go to locals only places

Your best bet to finding locals on your trip is to try and frequent bars or restaurants which are popular with locals. Some of these places tend me to be away from the centre of town and embedded in one of the neighbourhoods of the city so don’t be afraid to spread out, get off the beaten path a little. Ask at your hotel or hostel reception for tips for the most local friendly neighbourhoods. Once I have a sense of which area or part of town is popular with locals, I’ll often go for a little run in the area to get a feel of the city. Running first thing in the morning is great for so many things including getting a pulse of a city.

5. Go where you can see locals

My rule for a good place, usually filled with locals is to see if there is a clear glass where you can casually checkout the vibe from outside and also smell the food. Also, if you see the menu in English outside, I tend to give it a miss.

Buy the game?

The Locals Know It Best, Basel card game can be purchased with a free city map at the Tourist Information office in the Stadtcasino, Basel. Click here to buy the game.

You can also drop me a line kash@budgettraveller.org if you would like to buy a copy of the game.

 

 

Where to stay in Basel: Silo Hostel

Situated in the up-and-coming hip neighborhood of Erlenmatt Ost within walking distance of the Badischer Bahnhof, this design and culture hostel with restaurant is located inside a former grain warehouse of the city of Basel that was renovated in 2020 by the architect, Harry Gugger. Spread across three floors the hostel has a fantastic in house restaurant, three meeting rooms plus a hostel with 10 dorms and 10 doubles. The menu at restaurant is varied with excellent all day breakfasts plus everything from homemade soup, salads to pasta , grilled local fish or their signature pork ribs. It is a bit pricey for a hostel but the quality of the food here was amazing so keep that in mind. The rooms are spacious and well spaced out with very comfy beds plus the shared facilities-showers and bathrooms are very clean and stylish. The staff are super helpful and friendly so you will be well looked after by Christian and his team.

Special thanks

The Locals Know it Best, Basel Edition card game was produced in partnership with Basel Tourismus. Huge thank you to Isidora Rudolph and everyone at Basel Tourismus for supporting the idea and making it reality.. Also a huge thank you to all the amazing Basel locals who we met and took part- Julie from Bug a Thai, Sacha Kohler from Kunstmuseum  Basel, Martina, Flo from Za Zaa, Martin+Ann+Christian- Silo Hostel, Martin-Schall & Rauch, Robert from Grenzwert for sharing your beautiful city with us and being part of our little card game.

 

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